Skip to main content

Country French Wine wooden Server


Create old-world charm with a few weekends' worth of work.
There's something about a glass of fine wine that evokes visions of France. So when I was asked to design a server to store 24 hottles, my decision to create a piece that resembled a well-loved French antique was a no-brainer.
As you'll see, this piece combines form and function. Featuring special moldings for storing glasses and a drawer for winerelated accessories, this server is sure to be a hit with the wine connoisseurs in your social life.
Beginning woodworkers will appreciate the straightforward construction process. Despite its appearance, you can easily build this piece using plywood and solid stock available in most home centers. The rustic hardware, carved feet, and grape onlays are only a phone call away. Once you build the server, try a surprisingly easy finishing technique that adds years of character with just a brush.

Start with the sides

Using your table saw, cut the side stiles (A), top rails (8), and
boltom rails (C) [0 the sizes in the Cut List.

2. Draw a centerline on the end of a rail from edge to edge. Now, adjust the height of a combination blade in your table saw to 1/2" and set the fence so that the blade cuts less than W' off from the(;enterline. Using scrap of the same thickness, make a pass with one face against the fence. rotate the stock, and make a second pass with the opposite face against the fence. Test the resulting groove's fit with the plywood material for side panels (0). Adjust the fence if needed for a snug fit, and then groove the inside frame edges of
the side stiles (A) and rails (8, C) to house side panels (D).

3. Outfit your table saw with a dado set to cut the 1/2 M·longstub tenons on the rails (8, C) where shown in Figure 1. Add a sacrificial fence to your rip fence and bury the unused portion of the dado set. Add an auxiliary fence to your miter gauge. Again, usIng scrap of the same thickness placed face down, sneak up on the tenon cuts and test-fit the tenon in a stile groove to check the setting. Now, cut the rail tenons.


Tip:
3D Squares are the next-best thing to having an extra set of hands in the shop. Secure them with clamps to support sections while the glue sets.

Make the top frame and shelves

1. Cut the top frame front rail (E), back rail (F), and side rails (G) to the dimensions in the Cut List. Mark the centerlines on parts E, F. G for the bisnlit slots. Cut the slots and glue up the frame. When dry, drill and countersink screw holes to attach it to the top (M). Slot the center holes and those in the top front rail for expansion and contraction with lj16" slots.

2. Cut three plywood panels to size for the shelves (H).
3. Using the table saw and dado set, cut the centered I/ l" wide )(1/,," deep dadoes in the bottom face of the middle shelf (H) and top face of the bottom shelf (H),where shown in Figure 1. (These dadoes will be used later to house the vertical divider ICC] in the two lower shelves.)
4. Cut the biscu it slots into the shelves and top frame.
5. Make the mid-shelf edges (I), the bottom shelf edge (1), and the mid-shelf filler strips (K). install the edges and filler strips onto the shelves, where shown in Figure 1. using wood glue and brads.

Rest of the story read at Woodcraft magazine Aug-Sep 2009…

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Lumber Grades At A Glance

Domestic hardwood lumber found at sawmills meets different quality levels or grades as specified by the National Hardwood Lumber Association (NHLA). The basis for this wood grading is the number and size of defect-free clear cuttings in a board, as summarized below, Thickness is not a consideration, though with some species worm holes, gum pockets, and stain are acceptable. FAS (First & Seconds) lumber grade. This premium grade represents the finest lumber yield in a log. Generally, the minimum size board is 6" wide by 8' long which yields a minimum of 83 1/3% clear cuttings on its poorest face. F1F (FAS One Face) lumber grade. The best face grades as clear FAS; the worst, as #1 common, containing some knots. Selects lumber grade. Close to a FAS board. A Select board must be a minimum of 4" wide and 6' long and yield a minimum of 83 1/3% clear cuttings, but only on one face with #1 common on the worst face. #1 Common . An economical choice f...

Preventing clamp stains [short tip]

The metal bar of a clamp can be strained by adhesive that drips during gluing operations. Dried glue can also interfere with the ratcheting action of some clamps. To eliminate the problem, use a hacksaw or band saw to cut a roll of wax paper into 2-inch-wide mini-roll. Then, each time you apply a clamp, tear off a strip pf paper to wrap over or under the bar. And then, different problem - similar solution:

4-Step Antique Finish

Create a fool-the-eye timeworn look. Some projects, like wine server for your wood cabinet, are not unlike a pair of blue jeans, Both look better after a few years of regular use. To create that well-worn look wood finish, I have come up with a finishing schedule that can add a century's worth of character in less time than it would take to stonewash a new pair of Levis. At first glance, this four-step finish might appear demanding, bur keep reading. As you'll soon learn, this special finish amounts to little more than a combination of a few basic techniques you've probably used before. The “pickling" and - “highlighting” I use aren't much different than whitewashing a fence. Simply brush on the color and then wipe some off until it looks good to you. And after each step you'll apply a quick-drying seal coat to save your work. Besides providing an additional decorative element to your work, antiquing has some practical advantages. Adding color t...