Antique woodworking - how to give a new piece of wood an antique look

If your dream of owning handcrafted furniture is a little out of your budget, this guide will help you give any wood item an antique faux finish for that old-world charm.

Step 1: Sand the woodSand the wood to allow the paint to stick. Use a fine-grit sandpaper. Smooth corners and uneven areas to create a distressed look.TipUse an electric sander to make the process easier.Step 2: Add marksAdd dents and scratches using a hammer, screwdriver, and chisel to give the wood character and add an illusion of wear and tear.Step 3: Start with a dark base colorUse a paintbrush to apply a dark base color sparingly and in a sporadic pattern to convey aging and time-induced water damage. Wipe away any excess paint before it dries.TipThe dark base shouldn't cover the wood completely -- just hit the high areas that would see the most damage.Step 4: Apply your main colorApply your main paint color from the top of the wood toward the bottom. Allow the brush to run dry to create a worn appearance. Use a rag to remove excess paint before it dries.Step 5: Apply a crackle mediumApply a crackle medium sparingly over the areas that would naturally see sun or water damage. Paint over the dried crackle and allow the paint to chip and crack.Step 6: Leave it naturalLeave the wood unfinished or protect it with a satin or flat finish to give it a muted, antique appearance. Display your newly aged furniture for friends and family to gawk at in wonder.

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Lumber Grades At A Glance

Domestic hardwood lumber found at sawmills meets different quality levels or grades as specified by the National Hardwood Lumber Association (NHLA). The basis for this wood grading is the number and size of defect-free clear cuttings in a board, as summarized below, Thickness is not a consideration, though with some species worm holes, gum pockets, and stain are acceptable. FAS (First & Seconds) lumber grade. This premium grade represents the finest lumber yield in a log. Generally, the minimum size board is 6" wide by 8' long which yields a minimum of 83 1/3% clear cuttings on its poorest face. F1F (FAS One Face) lumber grade. The best face grades as clear FAS; the worst, as #1 common, containing some knots. Selects lumber grade. Close to a FAS board. A Select board must be a minimum of 4" wide and 6' long and yield a minimum of 83 1/3% clear cuttings, but only on one face with #1 common on the worst face. #1 Common . An economical choice f...

Preventing clamp stains [short tip]

The metal bar of a clamp can be strained by adhesive that drips during gluing operations. Dried glue can also interfere with the ratcheting action of some clamps. To eliminate the problem, use a hacksaw or band saw to cut a roll of wax paper into 2-inch-wide mini-roll. Then, each time you apply a clamp, tear off a strip pf paper to wrap over or under the bar. And then, different problem - similar solution:

4-Step Antique Finish

Create a fool-the-eye timeworn look. Some projects, like wine server for your wood cabinet, are not unlike a pair of blue jeans, Both look better after a few years of regular use. To create that well-worn look wood finish, I have come up with a finishing schedule that can add a century's worth of character in less time than it would take to stonewash a new pair of Levis. At first glance, this four-step finish might appear demanding, bur keep reading. As you'll soon learn, this special finish amounts to little more than a combination of a few basic techniques you've probably used before. The “pickling" and - “highlighting” I use aren't much different than whitewashing a fence. Simply brush on the color and then wipe some off until it looks good to you. And after each step you'll apply a quick-drying seal coat to save your work. Besides providing an additional decorative element to your work, antiquing has some practical advantages. Adding color t...

Unfinished wood, woodcraft and more

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