A sliding lid needs straight, parallel grooves and room to move. It does not need a tight friction fit. Make the box first, then fit the lid to the assembled opening.
A layout you can adapt
Use 10 mm stock for a small box with a 200 × 120 mm outside footprint. The long sides run full length; the short ends fit between them. Use a plywood bottom glued beneath the box and a plywood lid to simplify movement.
| Part | Quantity | Starting size |
|---|---|---|
| Long sides | 2 | 200 × 60 × 10 mm |
| Rear end | 1 | 100 × 60 × 10 mm |
| Front end | 1 | 100 × 48 × 10 mm |
| Bottom | 1 | 200 × 120 × 6 mm |
| Lid blank | 1 | 200 × 108 × actual 4 mm plywood |
The lid blank is intentionally oversized for final fitting. Dimensions assume actual stock thicknesses; groove width must follow the lid you have.
Lay out the lid path
On the inside of each long side, mark the lower edge of a horizontal groove 48 mm above the bottom. Cut it about 4 mm deep and just wider than the lid. The shortened front end finishes level with the lower groove edge, allowing the lid to enter above it. The full-height rear end stops the lid.
Test the groove on scrap before machining the box sides. Secure the work and use a tool setup suitable for small stock. Do not improvise freehand routing on an unsecured strip.
Assemble, then fit
Glue and clamp the four walls square, keeping glue out of the lid grooves. Fit the bottom after checking diagonals. Let the joints cure before trying to fit the lid.
The inside width is 100 mm; two 4 mm grooves provide a theoretical 108 mm space. Plane or sand the lid width down a little at a time until it slides freely. Its finished length should stop against the rear end without projecting awkwardly beyond the front; mark it from the actual box.
Add a shallow finger recess at the leading edge. Ease the lid corners and test again after finishing, because finish buildup can close a comfortable clearance. If the lid jams only halfway in, check the grooves for taper before removing more material from both edges.
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